17 August 2015
Alexandre Vauthier Couture
Fall-Winter 2015 Paris
Master in the art of fascinating creation, Alexandre Vauthier presented the perfect glamorous wardrobe. Women were never so glamorous than this season, thanks to thick fur, leather and silk. Playing with seduction, women embody here all the glam rock inspirations Alexandre Vauthier found in Los Angeles. As a matter of fact, Native American is the main theme of this fashion show, which is a clear success. Emphasis is given on details, with fringed belt and dresses, giving the silhouette this charming touch of an elegant eccentricity. Femme fatale, the woman Alexandre Vauthier imagined is captivating, celebrating the Californian spirit: effortless and chic. If the silhouettes are sometimes unstructured, it’s with a perfect sense of volume and lines.
Some outfits were sensational, particularly in the dramatic set of inverted V neons, reaching down from the coming. A dress stalked by with lozenges cut out down the leg, negative spaces left by assembling fabric in a neo-bandage construction. Strips of jerseys, golden bugle tubes threaded on them and then sewn together, mirroring an inverted version of the scissored work of Adam "The Shredder" Saaks. And then there is the craftsmanship. If you ever wondered what dragon hide could look like, the alligator embroidery – 380 000 sequins, 90 000 crystals, all in gold – forming a reconstituted crocodile hide was it. Vauthier is well versed in the reality of couture today – it is meant to be worn by modern women. Ultimately, what the client demands is more about the unseen luxe details – cue the pink ink lining in a satin, flamingo embroidered satin bomber jacket – than it is about reverence to heritage. Of course, harnessing the latter makes achieving the former that much easier.
Despite catering for the resolutely "now," Vauthier will also be signing haute joaillerie designs – a teaser selection could be seen, throwing icy bling in a deep V-neck or coiled around a wrist – for four century-old Vendôme staple Mellerio dits Meller. "Every dress is a letter added to a text that is still taking shape," he had said. As far as anyone can tell, this is the beginning of a new chapter in the chic sexpot manual.