4 September 2015
Make up for the Dior by Peter Phillips
The creative Director for Dior Makeup, Peter Phillips, has once again proved that a makeup artist must be a creative person, a kind of artist. Therefore, creating a podium makeup, he uses not only one cosmetic product. Neat wings in pastel shades on the eyelids of models – is the result of hard, long hours of work with delicate satin fabric from which Phillips cut small “half moons” in the form of the ciliary contour. They replaced the eyeliner for the creation of beauty looks for Christian Dior show. This non-standard technique invented by him, is used by the artist at the first opportunity. On the recent Fendi show, same wings were made from blue leather, and at Dior couture show in summer, the makeup artist made the “eyeliner” from mirrored silver paper. The new variation was successful and also was liked by Raf Simons. Pastel wings harmoniously complemented the minimalist look, so adored by the fashion designer. Simple and concise makeup and elementary hairstyle – Guido Palau gave the model’s hair to dry naturally and left them loose – this is the modern French style in the understanding of Dior.
Peter Philips took his inspiration from the spirit of a collection that continues the pure, modern aesthetic of Haute-Couture Winter 2015. He has devised a make-up look that sees both strong and delicate expressions of colour, in the image of the clothing silhouettes that invent a new type of elegance, blending reinterpretations of historic references with absolute modernity. So, in the same way that you add a chapter to a story, I have given new focus to the eyes by creating an unprecedented eyeliner “Pastel Eyes“. I used laser-cut patches of satin, in soft, pastel colours. I thought it would be interesting to take a classic fabric like satin and subvert it to obtain a really modern make-up finish, which in fact looks very similar to a ‘neoprene’ effect.
“The eyes are the most important element of this fresh, young and luminous make-up look,” explains Peter Philips. Eye liner, in the form of a satin cut-out, is applied to the lash line on the upper eyelid. I chose to create “Pastel Eyes” (Kingdom of Colors – Spring Look 2015, available 01-15-2015), 4 looks in very chemical pastel shades of pistachio, yellow, pink and peach. First of all, Backstage Eye Prime, long-wear and smoothing eye primer is applied all over the eyelid. Lashes are bare, just curled without mascara. Eyebrows are carefully made-up using the Crayon Sourcils Poudre.
Diorskin Star Fluid Foundation is blended into the skin for a glowing complexion. I wanted an even, natural complexion – neither too matte nor too shiny, Peter Philips specifies. I applied a slight hint of soft pink blush to the cheeks with Dior Blush n°536 Peach Splendor.
Lips are discreet. I applied fresh pink Rouge Dior Baume n°448 Belle de Printemps and blended it with my fingers. Nails are also painted in a delicate, elegant pastel colour with Dior Vernis n°294 Lady, a grey lilac.
Guido Palau created styles that play on a simple and modern look, with long hair left loose over the shoulders.