30 January 2016
Dolce & Gabbana Menswear S/S 2016 Sicilian Chinoiserie
'' Chinese atmospheres and the Mediterranean tradition of Sicily come together in the Summer 2016 men's fashion show ''
The exotic beauty of the chinoiserie and the geometric and colorful shapes of Sicilian folk motifs characterize the Summer 2016 men's runway show collection. It was with quite a bit of giddy anticipation that guests walked into the Dolce & Gabbana menswear show. After all, designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana had pretty much given the theme game away with their elaborate invitation and accompanying show notes booklet. It spelled out, in nine different languages, that the collection was called "The Chinese Palace," after the landmark located in Palermo, thus making this collection's intention to find a way to blend the exotic Orient with the duo's favorite Sicilian style.
The introduction of ripped jeans and some perfectly faded and fitted leather jackets also worked well within the Dolce & Gabbana universe, as did the reappearance of some of the print motifs, this time brought to life through embroidery. It was when the Sicilian side of things began to show up that this collection started to look muddled. Rough jute tops with gilded black and white images of Madonna and child, lemon tree printed ensembles, and loud, primary-color naive drawings of Chinese iconography felt disconnected somehow from the groundwork laid in the first half of the show.
It was only in the finale, when all 102 models came out wearing polo versions of some of the collection's silk print designs, did the show get back on track. Astute editors might also have spotted that each top featured a crown logo. It's a new symbol for the house. Now go ahead and mull over all the subtext that choice of symbol infers.
The Chinese Palace of Palermo, with its fine panels, tapestries and paintings is a paragon of this eccentric taste for exoticism. '' Pagodas, lanterns, cacti, oriental dignitaries and peacocks create fancyful prints inspired by the Chinese Palace of Palermo ''
It was only in the finale, when all 102 models came out wearing polo versions of some of the collection's silk print designs, did the show get back on track. Astute editors might also have spotted that each top featured a crown logo. It's a new symbol for the house.