10 January 2016
Anthony Vaccarello. Spring/Summer hot and black collection
Anthony Vaccarello collections does not tend to change dramatically from season to season. We traditionally expect from the designer extreme length dresses and skirts, low-cut opening leg models, decorative elements of metal and a lot of skin. Classic occasion in this regard was yesterday's show of Anthony Vaccarello in Paris. With one difference: black leather jackets replace the hard-military jackets with leather inserts and gold zippers. But dresses and mini-skirts and branded a radical asymmetry remained - cuts on them show naked body just enough to not to be vulgar.
But what really deserves attention in the collection of Anthony Vaccarello in this season - prints depicting the face of a close friend and muse of designer Anya Rubik the model. A closer look reveals that it does not prints, "portrait" of the model is created with hundreds of metal rivets. Another picture - large flowers, look like drawn by blue ink appeared on the white cotton shirt. To wear that Vaccarello offer to fill it in the skinny jeans. A simpler and more stretched white T-shirts and shirts mix with a very seductive asymmetric skirts and dresses.
There is a demand for designers that helm two houses to show differentiation between their own labels and, in this case, Donatella's darling, and today it looked like Vaccarello had made such moves. Crisp white shirts with denim-blue rose prints (interestingly also found on the Versus catwalk) tucked into high-waisted jeans stood out a mile from the short-skimming lengths of last, and every other, season, while metallic studding in a ruby hue depicting pixelated visages ventured onto more artisanal ground. It was refreshing to see the shift in Vaccarello’s sensibility, however coming onto the catwalk in the midst of the usual Vaccarello hallmarks - skin-tight striped tailoring, gold hardware, asymmetric cut-outs and so on - made the usual cohesion of his shows fall slightly out of sync. There either needed to be more, or less.