"Italia is Love", the show was called - and it was a world tour of references: Peruvian pom-poms, chinoiserie dresses, riviera style, Italian tradition - all transposed the Dolce & Gabbana way. So: lace, opulent embroidery and embellishment. All the Dolce & Gabbana DNA was there as it always is - it was just about another way in showing it off: the social network.
AIR travel has been a big topic of conversation in the fashion world of late. It seems a week hardly passes without some brand somewhere staging a megawatt show in a megawatt location. This year perhaps more than any other, editors and buyers have really clocked up the air miles, and so the idea of heading to an airport – again – as the show invitation indicates, might not be so appealing. But Chanel
’s airport is the exception.
ARMY was out in force this afternoon at Le Grand Hotel in Paris, where Olivier Rousteing's all girl squad - Kendall, Gigi, Doutzen, Isabeli, Joan, Alessandra, Jourdan, Binx and both the Lilys - perfected their march for commander general Rousteing, who informed us in the show notes that this season would feature different elements from previous collections. His upcoming collaboration with H&M made him comb his own Balmain archives, reminding him of the wealth of material that was “the result of four years of hard work,” he said. Four years is a long time in his industry and as a result he deemed it time to introduce new ideas for spring and to broaden the Balmain DNA.
SARAH BURTON has long been credited as the light source at McQueen. In previous seasons it’s been subtle, like a crack in a window but bit by bit that window has widened. Tonight, it was thrown wide open. There was an undercurrent of fetishism here but it was tame and more refined in its execution; silver chain harnesses were draped loosely around the body over razor-sharp black tailoring.
As for his swan-song collection, it was unapologetically feminine. "I wanted to play with romanticism. Balenciaga is a house known for keeping innovation at the forefront, and so I said let’s try to look at the opposing idea. Let’s look at very simple and humble cloths like linens and cottons and silks and try to give them this artisanal, couture and hand–touched quality.”